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قديم 08-12-2010, 01:58 AM
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منقول Aquamist Water Injection Cooling 2s IT CAN BE FIT WITH ANY CARS!!1

SYSTEM 2s A fully-mappable water-injection system, pre-pressurized system, equipped with diagnostic circuitry, able to detect blocked water-jet and abnormal operation problems. Download 1s fitting tips (750Kb)
DESCRIPTION This is the ultimate water injection system: its function is directly comparable to a standard car's fuel injection system, except it controls water-flow. In addition, it has diagnostic circuitry designed to detect blocked water-jets and cut pipes. A special output link from the ECU can inform other systems in the event of a fault condition, so boost-pressure can be lowered to minimise engine damage. A pre-pressurized system enables instant response on demand.
WATER PUMP Specially designed and manufactured by ERL for the sole purpose of pumping water, its delivery rate is small but generated at very high pressure: a minimum differential pressure of 3 bar is necessary for the ERL atomising jet. There are no mechanical links between the piston and the drive motor: the movement of the special magnetic stainless piston is induced by a powerful magnetic field generated by the on-board electronic controller. Flow and pressure characteristics are controlled by varying the frequency and the duration of the electrical pulse fed to the solenoid.
MF2 MF2 is the brain of the system, ultimately responsible for the vital functions of metering the water delivery rate. The MF2 uses incoming RPM and pressure signals from the sensors in the engine bay and compares them with a pre-programmed map set by the user. After several signal conditioning stages it finally arrives at the pulse-width-modulator stage, and the output signal is then converted into digital pulses before being sent to the electro-magnetic water valve.
MANIFOLD BLOCK The electro-magnetic water valve and a water pressure switch sit on the top of the anodised aluminum block. The valve controls the flow rate and the pressure switch (normally set to 5 bars) limits the water pressure in the event of the pump's malfunctioning (the pump is capable of reaching a pressure of 12 bars!). There are two additional inlet ports: one for priming the water pump on start-up, the other for a remote water-pressure gauge.
ADJUSTABLE PRESSURE SWITCH This switch determines the point where the system starts to inject. It is normally fitted to the vacuum side of the inlet manifold (2D mode). For applications where load signal (throttle angle sensor) or manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP sensor) are available, the MF2 can read these signals and perfom 3-D mapping functions.
STAINLESS IN-LINE WATER FILTER Apart from perfoming the normal function, this filter can be back-flushed and re-used again and again. In hard water areas, clean the filter in a small glass of diluted household lime-remover occasionally.

WATER JET The jet is made of nickel-plated brass with two spiral grooves cut into the centre insert. Water travelling through these grooves picks up a swirling motion before leaving the small hole on the tip, causing an atomising effect, turning the water into a fine mist: of course a pressure of at least 3 bar is required. Jet sizes from 0.5mm to 1.0mm are available in 0.1mm increments.
FUSED LOOM (Blue) A high quality splash-proof plug, with seals, hosts eleven UL and CSA approved wires for connections to the intended equipment/sensors. All mating pins of the socket/plug are gold-plated, all capable of carrying 5 amps of electrical current. An additional pair of wires supplies a stablised output voltage of 5 volts for driving a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. Click on TECH-LINK for see schematic diagram
MF2 inline fuse (Blue) Inline fuse rated at 6A for use with the MF2wire loom.
FASTERNERS All fasteners are made with high quality 316(A4) grade stainless steel: lower grade stainless steel does suffer from corrosion and pitting under the harsh environments of the engine bay
Instruction manual A 20-page comprehensively-written instruction manual discusses every aspect of the MF2 in great detail, including over 20 schematic diagrams and illustrations.
FUSED LOOM (pump) The 3-wire loom is equipped with a 10A inline fuse. Wire size is very important as the pump draws large currents at start-up of every stroke (45 times/sec.): make sure a 30A wire is used if extension is necessary.




Turbo Cars: Aquamist

Aquamist Water Injection as used by most of the WRC rally cars is an especially clever way of adding horsepower and protecting your valuable tuned engine. Using Aquamist water injection is like having another large intercooler but without the pressure drop associated with twin intercooler set-ups.

The Aquamist system cleverly monitors boost pressure and delivers a shot of water mist into the inlet manifold when it senses boost pressure rising - the more boost there is the more mist is supplied. You may ask why water would make any difference to performance: the answer is simple; the small amount of metered mist increases the amount of oxygen (present in water), cools the combustion chamber and increases the charge air density. The result is more reliable and safe horsepower.

If you have any questions regarding Aquamist water injection call or e-mail Autopassion anytime.


Long ago in the days well before MotoIQ in the early 80’s, as a teenager, I started tinkering with water injection. Being somewhat of a mad scientist, I had equipped the first engine I had ever built, a small block Ford with domed high compression pistons which had a compression ratio of about 12:1, something that was impossible to run well with the 92 octane gas and mechanically controlled fuel and spark available at the time. I always had to concoct toxic and carcinogenic mixtures of gasoline, methanol, toluene and acetone to keep my car from detonating to death. Fortunately my friend’s dad was a technician at TRW and he was always bringing home 5 gallon drums of these chemicals that had expired use by dates for us to clean parts in and put in our gas tanks. Somehow I think I might end up paying for all of that soon but that’s another story.
Somewhere I had read that the P51 Mustang fighter used water alcohol injection to give it more power under dog fighting conditions so I rigged up a water injection system using an old windshield washer pump and experimented with various mixtures of stuff from my friend’s ad hoc chemical supply house in the reservoir. I found that my crude system sorta worked, it suppressed detonation but had drivability issues and it was sort of lame to try to throw a switch to turn on your system while driving fast.
Edelbrock's Vara Jection was the first electronically controlled water injection system that tried to match water volume to engine load. They came out in the late 70's early 80's when gas started to get crappy as a crutch to help those old high compression muscle cars survive on unleaded gas. Spearco had a crude hobbs switch boost activated system back then as well. Neither of these systems worked that well, probably because they had lame pee stream nozzles and used 15 psi windshield washer pumps. They were still better than my push button homemade system. Although I found this picture on the internet, I swear this sure looks like the unit on my car from the ground, my lame high schooler wiring and the light blue overspray all around. I wonder if one of my old photos somehow found its way on the net?
This sort of got solved when Edelbrock came out with a water injection controller the next year (I think I was still a teenager). It had RPM and vacuum sensors built into some sort of box that controlled the injection rate with crude spray nozzles. This system worked much better and I used this until I rebuilt my engine with a lower 10:1 compression ratio after tiring with messing around with this stuff. I noticed that if I used water, I would seem to lose power and methanol would work but I would have to dump a lot in and the tank would empty out super quickly.

I tried my system on my buddies L20B Datsun engine after I convinced him to run 13:1 using the water injection to keep it from detonating apart. However the 4 throats of the Mikuni carbs each needed their own nozzle and the pump we used didn’t have enough volume for all 4 nozzles. Due to the low volume pump, the system didn’t work right and we ended up melting the ring lands. He was pissed at me because he blew the engine before I could get the system running right and I told him he was an idiot for keeping his foot in it when the engine was detonating like gangbusters. After that I lost interest in trying to tune high compression naturally aspirated engines with water injection.
Aquamist's system actually does work. They were the first to use high pressure pumps and atomizer nozzles. I like the simplicity of their base systems but I don't like the linear water delivery curve and the lack of failsafes. Aquamist's high end systems now have all of this figured out but they are somewhat complicated. Still good stuff and the first water systems that in my opinion actually worked.
Fast forward to the early 90’s, Gas had fallen to 91 octane and turbos were starting to become all the rage and detonation was always a problem. I found out about a water injection system from the UK called Aquamist that was popularized in the WRC cars of that time. My friend Peter Medina (who now owns Synapse Engineering) obtained a couple of units for himself and he and I began to tinker. The Aquamist system had a high pressure pump and an atomized nozzle. This system worked really well. I really liked it until I blew up an EVO when the system's Hobbs switch failed and filled up the engine with water. The nozzles also tended to clog easily. The lack of failsafes and the fact that the system didn’t have any sort of water volume adjustability other than jet sizes made tuning rather difficult, made me once again put water injection on the shelf. To be fair, Aquamist has since come up with vastly improved systems with mappable water controllers and metering valves but we haven’t evaluated them yet.
Here is an Aquamist system installed in one of my 90's turbo SR20DE powered cars. This sucker made just over 400 whp on pump gas with water injection and 529 whp period.


Here is an Aquamist system installed in one of my 90's turbo SR20DE powered cars. This sucker made just over 400 whp on pump gas with water injection



and 529 whp period.


Fast forward to now. AEM gave me their latest version of a water injection system and I reluctantly agreed to install it on Project EVO IX. The more I studied the system, the more I felt better about it. The AEM system uses a powerful high pressure, 6 amp, 72 watt 150 psi pump. This is important because on a turbo car, the water injection system has to work against the boost pressure so a 20 psi windshield washer pump will actually not pump any water at all at 20 psi of boost unless the water tank is boost referenced. The pump also features chemical resistant fluroelastomer EDPM seals and a santoprene diaphragm so as not to be phased by ethanol or methanol in any concentration.

A high pressure pump will also create good atomization with the right nozzle. Good atomization is important for proper distribution of water mist in the intake manifold. A unique feature of the AEM pump is an internal bypass which allows it to be constantly running. This is important because it ensures fast response to demand and a consistent, smooth delivery of evenly atomized water to the engine. In fact, the quality and consistency of atomization is greatly improved with the constant on pump. With the constantly running pump, we noticed the fast response and felt confident about it even with our very remotely mounted pump. With other systems we often have felt surges, detonation and lag when the water system activates, especially if the throttle has been pushed hard enough to activate the system after a few minutes of light throttle due to operational lag. Our AEM system never had any of these driveabilty issues due to the constantly running pump.
Brian Kono of Afterhours Automotive built this bracket that mounts the water tank, high pressure pump and in-line water filter cleanly in the trunk. We put everything including the battery in the right side of the trunk to offset the driver's weight and help balance the front heavy EVO.Our AEM system came with a one gallon reservoir although an optional 5 gallon one is available. We also used the recommended optional in line water filter, important to help reduce the chance of nozzle clogging. We mounted our tank and water pump in the trunk, to help keep our weight distribution from getting out of line. Brian Kono of Afterhours Automotive built us a beautiful bracket to mount the stuff and keep everything sanitary.

The AEM system comes with an all important electronic pump controller. The pump controller reads boost pressure via an internal sensor and controls the water delivery rate. The user can easily adjust the fluid volume delivery by turning two screws, one for onset boost pressure and the second for final boost pressure. The controller will set up a linear slope of increasing pump fluid delivery volume between those two points. This really helps eliminate drivability bugaboos like low boost bogging that other water injection systems sometimes have.
The controller and activation switch is hidden cleanly in the center console. This was chosen for its easy access when tuning.
The pump controller has internal detection of electrical faults, a fluid reservoir level sensor and has the option to cut boost via a switched ground if the system runs out of water or the controller malfunctions. The controller also has a warning light and an external warning LED which illuminate if there is a problem with the system. These are features that we wished our last system had, it would have saved an engine.


The system warning LED is mounted in the dash. This lights when the system detects low fluid levels or an electrical fault in the controller.
From the pump we ran the water to the engine compartment and the nozzle. We used the medium size 315 cc/minute nozzle which is recommended for applications from 250-400 hp. We mounted the nozzle fairly close to the throttle body because we believe that we want the water’s phase change from liquid to gas to progress all the way to the combustion chamber. This causes it to pull as much heat out of the intake charge with the minimum volume of water as possible. This is because water injection uses the fact that water has a high latent heat of evaporation and much of the benefit of water injection is from the cooling effect of vaporizing the water as well as combustion buffering of the water in the combustion chamber slowing the burn. The water changing to steam also scrubs the combustion chamber and plugs, keeping them pretty free of deposits. If you mount the nozzle too far away, the water will all evaporate before it gets to the combustion chambers and some of the benefits will be lost, or more water must be injected with the risk of causing a loss of power or driveability issues. At the nozzle we installed the supplied one way check valve. The check valve makes sure that the water line will always be pressurized to the pump bypass pressure no matter how long the water line run is. This speeds response and prevent siphoning pullover from adding unmetered water into the intake stream.
We mounted the atomizer nozzle fairly close to the throttle body. In our experience its best to mount the nozzle from 6 "to 12" away from the throttle body. Too close and the mist won't mix with the air stream. Too far and the water mist will vaporize too soon. Ideally you want the phase change to vapor to happen from the point of injection all the way to the cylinders. This gives the most gains with the least amount of water.
One of the biggest problems that we have had in the past is the assurance that the water injection system is working properly. This is especially important if you are tuning the engine or boost levels around the water injection system. If the water is interrupted then engine damage can result. In the past we have had pump problems and clogged nozzles that were only detected when detonation was heard, not the best way to tell if your system isn’t working, especially for those of us who have a hard time hearing it. The AEM system has a warning light but some other assurance that the system is working properly would be nice.
We mounted the one way check valve as close to the nozzle as possible. The check valve allows the system to always be pressurized and prevents pullover from emptying the line or siphoning water into the engine. The check valve speeds response this way and protects the engine from damage.

We mounted the one way check valve as close to the nozzle as possible. The check valve allows the system to always be pressurized and prevents pullover from emptying the line or siphoning water into the engine. The check valve speeds response this way and protects the engine from damage.






















In the past, when adjusting the onset of older systems, we had to resort to things like taping the water line to the windshield to see when in our driving cycle the pump would come on. That was a pretty lame way to verify the operation but with early crude systems that was one of the simplest ways to check operation.

As a final safety measure and as a tuning aid, we added AEM’s optional flow gauge. The flow gauge reads the actual water flow in cc’s per minute so you know exactly how much water the engine is getting. Since we are using the medium size 315cc/min injector nozzle we selected the 0-500cc gauge for best resolution. AEM sells a 0-500cc and a 0-1000cc gauge. The AEM gauge uses an inline flow meter to actually measure flow going to the engine. In the past we had fitted water systems with pressure gauges but this was not entirely effective for detecting nozzles that were starting to clog because the system would still generate pressure, just a little more pressure. The AEM gauge will actually tell you in real time what your flow rate is.
Bryan Kono of Afterhours Automotive built this very clean mount for our water flow meter. We did not want a ricey and cop attracting pillar pod so Brian fabbed this up out of aluminum and powdercoated it satin gray. This fits the meter into our ash tray area, it's cool because we don't smoke or let anyone smoke in our car. You can even easily put the ash tray back in. The meter should be mandatory for any water injection system because it really aids tuning and is a great safety device. It also has a 0-5 volt output so it can be data logged!
This real time flow rate is handy when tuning and to ensure everything is working properly. The AEM flow gauge has some cool features like a 0-5 volt output for flow rate data logging, a full 320 degree needle sweep for high resolution, an overflow warning light in case of some sort of failure that causes too much flow like a line popping off or springing a leak and seven different display colors to match your interior instrument lights no matter what kind of car you have. The AEM gauge will work on most water injection systems on the market. Having messed around with water injection systems a lot I really appreciate this gauge.

For our initial evaluation, we set up the AEM Water/Methanol injection system on Project EVO IX to inject water only, beginning injection at 10 psi of boost and having the full water volume in by 20 psi. We have our boost mapping set to spike at 24 psi and taper to 21 psi by redline so we would be getting the full volume of water through the rev range. Our EVO is tuned using the stock ECU with ECU Flash and we do our logging via EVO Scan. Our engine has really good oil, coolant and intercooling and we are tuned somewhat conservatively so most of our pulls have no to very little knock count. We sometimes register a knock count of 4 if we do repeated pulls with heat soaking and most tuners agree that the EVO ECU starts to pull timing if the knock count exceeds 3 or so during any single period of wide open throttle operation.

The AEM water/methanol system eliminated all of the knock count that we estimated was caused by rough combustion (the way our EVO is tuned, we never have audible detonation). EVOs sometime develop knock count due to drivetrain lash and other mechanical noise but it is easy to detect spurious knock count by looking at the engine's operation parameters in the logs. Knock count on lift throttle for instance is caused by drivetrain lash.

We also had other positive side effects. We had been tinkering with our boost tables trying to get a very aggressive boost pressure rise. With our highly efficient Full Race exhaust manifold, our turbo can spool so fast we were running into issues with compressor surge, especially when modulating the throttle in higher gears or doing 3-5th gear roll ons. This is pretty harmful to the turbo in long term use. However with the water injection, surge has been eliminated. We theorize that the water absorbs some of the combustion temp and drops the EGT’s enough to where the turbo spools a little slower in the 10-20 psi range and stays out of surge.

We also had a wonky O2 sensor that was contaminated while running race gas during a tuning session. The sensor had a slow response time and sometimes would not go into closed loop tripping a check engine light. A few minutes of operation under water injection operation literally scrubbed the sensor clean and it returned to normal operation which really boosted our fuel economy.

By our own experience, running a turbo car at moderate boost levels on the track with pump gas is always an iffy proposition, especially in Sothern California as most of our tracks are in really hot areas. So when doing track events, we always run 100 octane unleaded or VP 104 even if we are going to be running stock boost as a precaution. Turbo cars also tend to run hot under these conditions. In our experience, water injection really helps hold coolant temperatures down, sometimes even more than a large radiator. It also has a greater detonation suppressing ability than 100 octane fuel. We look forward to our AEM system giving us an extra margin of safety at the track with cheap pump gas without the expense of buying several $80 dollar tankfuls of racing fuel a weekend.


Stay tuned, next we will do a little experimenting with our tuning to see if we can get a significant power boost with the water system.

Magazine, Tech, Engine, Browse by Vehicle, Mitsubishi LANCER, EVO IX, Project EVO IX

التعديل الأخير تم بواسطة cars admire ; 08-12-2010 الساعة 02:05 AM
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  #2  
قديم 12-03-2011, 10:14 PM
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افتراضي رد: Aquamist Water Injection Cooling 2s IT CAN BE FIT WITH ANY CARS!!1


المشاركة الأصلية كتبت بواسطة cars admire مشاهدة المشاركة

SYSTEM 2s A fully-mappable water-injection system, pre-pressurized system, equipped with diagnostic circuitry, able to detect blocked water-jet and abnormal operation problems. Download 1s fitting tips (750Kb)
DESCRIPTION This is the ultimate water injection system: its function is directly comparable to a standard car's fuel injection system, except it controls water-flow. In addition, it has diagnostic circuitry designed to detect blocked water-jets and cut pipes. A special output link from the ECU can inform other systems in the event of a fault condition, so boost-pressure can be lowered to minimise engine damage. A pre-pressurized system enables instant response on demand.
WATER PUMP Specially designed and manufactured by ERL for the sole purpose of pumping water, its delivery rate is small but generated at very high pressure: a minimum differential pressure of 3 bar is necessary for the ERL atomising jet. There are no mechanical links between the piston and the drive motor: the movement of the special magnetic stainless piston is induced by a powerful magnetic field generated by the on-board electronic controller. Flow and pressure characteristics are controlled by varying the frequency and the duration of the electrical pulse fed to the solenoid.
MF2 MF2 is the brain of the system, ultimately responsible for the vital functions of metering the water delivery rate. The MF2 uses incoming RPM and pressure signals from the sensors in the engine bay and compares them with a pre-programmed map set by the user. After several signal conditioning stages it finally arrives at the pulse-width-modulator stage, and the output signal is then converted into digital pulses before being sent to the electro-magnetic water valve.
MANIFOLD BLOCK The electro-magnetic water valve and a water pressure switch sit on the top of the anodised aluminum block. The valve controls the flow rate and the pressure switch (normally set to 5 bars) limits the water pressure in the event of the pump's malfunctioning (the pump is capable of reaching a pressure of 12 bars!). There are two additional inlet ports: one for priming the water pump on start-up, the other for a remote water-pressure gauge.
ADJUSTABLE PRESSURE SWITCH This switch determines the point where the system starts to inject. It is normally fitted to the vacuum side of the inlet manifold (2D mode). For applications where load signal (throttle angle sensor) or manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP sensor) are available, the MF2 can read these signals and perfom 3-D mapping functions.
STAINLESS IN-LINE WATER FILTER Apart from perfoming the normal function, this filter can be back-flushed and re-used again and again. In hard water areas, clean the filter in a small glass of diluted household lime-remover occasionally.

WATER JET The jet is made of nickel-plated brass with two spiral grooves cut into the centre insert. Water travelling through these grooves picks up a swirling motion before leaving the small hole on the tip, causing an atomising effect, turning the water into a fine mist: of course a pressure of at least 3 bar is required. Jet sizes from 0.5mm to 1.0mm are available in 0.1mm increments.
FUSED LOOM (Blue) A high quality splash-proof plug, with seals, hosts eleven UL and CSA approved wires for connections to the intended equipment/sensors. All mating pins of the socket/plug are gold-plated, all capable of carrying 5 amps of electrical current. An additional pair of wires supplies a stablised output voltage of 5 volts for driving a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. Click on TECH-LINK for see schematic diagram
MF2 inline fuse (Blue) Inline fuse rated at 6A for use with the MF2wire loom.
FASTERNERS All fasteners are made with high quality 316(A4) grade stainless steel: lower grade stainless steel does suffer from corrosion and pitting under the harsh environments of the engine bay
Instruction manual A 20-page comprehensively-written instruction manual discusses every aspect of the MF2 in great detail, including over 20 schematic diagrams and illustrations.
FUSED LOOM (pump) The 3-wire loom is equipped with a 10A inline fuse. Wire size is very important as the pump draws large currents at start-up of every stroke (45 times/sec.): make sure a 30A wire is used if extension is necessary.




Turbo Cars: Aquamist

Aquamist Water Injection as used by most of the WRC rally cars is an especially clever way of adding horsepower and protecting your valuable tuned engine. Using Aquamist water injection is like having another large intercooler but without the pressure drop associated with twin intercooler set-ups.

The Aquamist system cleverly monitors boost pressure and delivers a shot of water mist into the inlet manifold when it senses boost pressure rising - the more boost there is the more mist is supplied. You may ask why water would make any difference to performance: the answer is simple; the small amount of metered mist increases the amount of oxygen (present in water), cools the combustion chamber and increases the charge air density. The result is more reliable and safe horsepower.

If you have any questions regarding Aquamist water injection call or e-mail Autopassion anytime.


Long ago in the days well before MotoIQ in the early 80’s, as a teenager, I started tinkering with water injection. Being somewhat of a mad scientist, I had equipped the first engine I had ever built, a small block Ford with domed high compression pistons which had a compression ratio of about 12:1, something that was impossible to run well with the 92 octane gas and mechanically controlled fuel and spark available at the time. I always had to concoct toxic and carcinogenic mixtures of gasoline, methanol, toluene and acetone to keep my car from detonating to death. Fortunately my friend’s dad was a technician at TRW and he was always bringing home 5 gallon drums of these chemicals that had expired use by dates for us to clean parts in and put in our gas tanks. Somehow I think I might end up paying for all of that soon but that’s another story.
Somewhere I had read that the P51 Mustang fighter used water alcohol injection to give it more power under dog fighting conditions so I rigged up a water injection system using an old windshield washer pump and experimented with various mixtures of stuff from my friend’s ad hoc chemical supply house in the reservoir. I found that my crude system sorta worked, it suppressed detonation but had drivability issues and it was sort of lame to try to throw a switch to turn on your system while driving fast.
Edelbrock's Vara Jection was the first electronically controlled water injection system that tried to match water volume to engine load. They came out in the late 70's early 80's when gas started to get crappy as a crutch to help those old high compression muscle cars survive on unleaded gas. Spearco had a crude hobbs switch boost activated system back then as well. Neither of these systems worked that well, probably because they had lame pee stream nozzles and used 15 psi windshield washer pumps. They were still better than my push button homemade system. Although I found this picture on the internet, I swear this sure looks like the unit on my car from the ground, my lame high schooler wiring and the light blue overspray all around. I wonder if one of my old photos somehow found its way on the net?
This sort of got solved when Edelbrock came out with a water injection controller the next year (I think I was still a teenager). It had RPM and vacuum sensors built into some sort of box that controlled the injection rate with crude spray nozzles. This system worked much better and I used this until I rebuilt my engine with a lower 10:1 compression ratio after tiring with messing around with this stuff. I noticed that if I used water, I would seem to lose power and methanol would work but I would have to dump a lot in and the tank would empty out super quickly.

I tried my system on my buddies L20B Datsun engine after I convinced him to run 13:1 using the water injection to keep it from detonating apart. However the 4 throats of the Mikuni carbs each needed their own nozzle and the pump we used didn’t have enough volume for all 4 nozzles. Due to the low volume pump, the system didn’t work right and we ended up melting the ring lands. He was pissed at me because he blew the engine before I could get the system running right and I told him he was an idiot for keeping his foot in it when the engine was detonating like gangbusters. After that I lost interest in trying to tune high compression naturally aspirated engines with water injection.
Aquamist's system actually does work. They were the first to use high pressure pumps and atomizer nozzles. I like the simplicity of their base systems but I don't like the linear water delivery curve and the lack of failsafes. Aquamist's high end systems now have all of this figured out but they are somewhat complicated. Still good stuff and the first water systems that in my opinion actually worked.
Fast forward to the early 90’s, Gas had fallen to 91 octane and turbos were starting to become all the rage and detonation was always a problem. I found out about a water injection system from the UK called Aquamist that was popularized in the WRC cars of that time. My friend Peter Medina (who now owns Synapse Engineering) obtained a couple of units for himself and he and I began to tinker. The Aquamist system had a high pressure pump and an atomized nozzle. This system worked really well. I really liked it until I blew up an EVO when the system's Hobbs switch failed and filled up the engine with water. The nozzles also tended to clog easily. The lack of failsafes and the fact that the system didn’t have any sort of water volume adjustability other than jet sizes made tuning rather difficult, made me once again put water injection on the shelf. To be fair, Aquamist has since come up with vastly improved systems with mappable water controllers and metering valves but we haven’t evaluated them yet.
Here is an Aquamist system installed in one of my 90's turbo SR20DE powered cars. This sucker made just over 400 whp on pump gas with water injection and 529 whp period.


Here is an Aquamist system installed in one of my 90's turbo SR20DE powered cars. This sucker made just over 400 whp on pump gas with water injection



and 529 whp period.


Fast forward to now. AEM gave me their latest version of a water injection system and I reluctantly agreed to install it on Project EVO IX. The more I studied the system, the more I felt better about it. The AEM system uses a powerful high pressure, 6 amp, 72 watt 150 psi pump. This is important because on a turbo car, the water injection system has to work against the boost pressure so a 20 psi windshield washer pump will actually not pump any water at all at 20 psi of boost unless the water tank is boost referenced. The pump also features chemical resistant fluroelastomer EDPM seals and a santoprene diaphragm so as not to be phased by ethanol or methanol in any concentration.

A high pressure pump will also create good atomization with the right nozzle. Good atomization is important for proper distribution of water mist in the intake manifold. A unique feature of the AEM pump is an internal bypass which allows it to be constantly running. This is important because it ensures fast response to demand and a consistent, smooth delivery of evenly atomized water to the engine. In fact, the quality and consistency of atomization is greatly improved with the constant on pump. With the constantly running pump, we noticed the fast response and felt confident about it even with our very remotely mounted pump. With other systems we often have felt surges, detonation and lag when the water system activates, especially if the throttle has been pushed hard enough to activate the system after a few minutes of light throttle due to operational lag. Our AEM system never had any of these driveabilty issues due to the constantly running pump.
Brian Kono of Afterhours Automotive built this bracket that mounts the water tank, high pressure pump and in-line water filter cleanly in the trunk. We put everything including the battery in the right side of the trunk to offset the driver's weight and help balance the front heavy EVO.Our AEM system came with a one gallon reservoir although an optional 5 gallon one is available. We also used the recommended optional in line water filter, important to help reduce the chance of nozzle clogging. We mounted our tank and water pump in the trunk, to help keep our weight distribution from getting out of line. Brian Kono of Afterhours Automotive built us a beautiful bracket to mount the stuff and keep everything sanitary.

The AEM system comes with an all important electronic pump controller. The pump controller reads boost pressure via an internal sensor and controls the water delivery rate. The user can easily adjust the fluid volume delivery by turning two screws, one for onset boost pressure and the second for final boost pressure. The controller will set up a linear slope of increasing pump fluid delivery volume between those two points. This really helps eliminate drivability bugaboos like low boost bogging that other water injection systems sometimes have.
The controller and activation switch is hidden cleanly in the center console. This was chosen for its easy access when tuning.
The pump controller has internal detection of electrical faults, a fluid reservoir level sensor and has the option to cut boost via a switched ground if the system runs out of water or the controller malfunctions. The controller also has a warning light and an external warning LED which illuminate if there is a problem with the system. These are features that we wished our last system had, it would have saved an engine.


The system warning LED is mounted in the dash. This lights when the system detects low fluid levels or an electrical fault in the controller.
From the pump we ran the water to the engine compartment and the nozzle. We used the medium size 315 cc/minute nozzle which is recommended for applications from 250-400 hp. We mounted the nozzle fairly close to the throttle body because we believe that we want the water’s phase change from liquid to gas to progress all the way to the combustion chamber. This causes it to pull as much heat out of the intake charge with the minimum volume of water as possible. This is because water injection uses the fact that water has a high latent heat of evaporation and much of the benefit of water injection is from the cooling effect of vaporizing the water as well as combustion buffering of the water in the combustion chamber slowing the burn. The water changing to steam also scrubs the combustion chamber and plugs, keeping them pretty free of deposits. If you mount the nozzle too far away, the water will all evaporate before it gets to the combustion chambers and some of the benefits will be lost, or more water must be injected with the risk of causing a loss of power or driveability issues. At the nozzle we installed the supplied one way check valve. The check valve makes sure that the water line will always be pressurized to the pump bypass pressure no matter how long the water line run is. This speeds response and prevent siphoning pullover from adding unmetered water into the intake stream.
We mounted the atomizer nozzle fairly close to the throttle body. In our experience its best to mount the nozzle from 6 "to 12" away from the throttle body. Too close and the mist won't mix with the air stream. Too far and the water mist will vaporize too soon. Ideally you want the phase change to vapor to happen from the point of injection all the way to the cylinders. This gives the most gains with the least amount of water.
One of the biggest problems that we have had in the past is the assurance that the water injection system is working properly. This is especially important if you are tuning the engine or boost levels around the water injection system. If the water is interrupted then engine damage can result. In the past we have had pump problems and clogged nozzles that were only detected when detonation was heard, not the best way to tell if your system isn’t working, especially for those of us who have a hard time hearing it. The AEM system has a warning light but some other assurance that the system is working properly would be nice.
We mounted the one way check valve as close to the nozzle as possible. The check valve allows the system to always be pressurized and prevents pullover from emptying the line or siphoning water into the engine. The check valve speeds response this way and protects the engine from damage.

We mounted the one way check valve as close to the nozzle as possible. The check valve allows the system to always be pressurized and prevents pullover from emptying the line or siphoning water into the engine. The check valve speeds response this way and protects the engine from damage.






















In the past, when adjusting the onset of older systems, we had to resort to things like taping the water line to the windshield to see when in our driving cycle the pump would come on. That was a pretty lame way to verify the operation but with early crude systems that was one of the simplest ways to check operation.

As a final safety measure and as a tuning aid, we added AEM’s optional flow gauge. The flow gauge reads the actual water flow in cc’s per minute so you know exactly how much water the engine is getting. Since we are using the medium size 315cc/min injector nozzle we selected the 0-500cc gauge for best resolution. AEM sells a 0-500cc and a 0-1000cc gauge. The AEM gauge uses an inline flow meter to actually measure flow going to the engine. In the past we had fitted water systems with pressure gauges but this was not entirely effective for detecting nozzles that were starting to clog because the system would still generate pressure, just a little more pressure. The AEM gauge will actually tell you in real time what your flow rate is.
Bryan Kono of Afterhours Automotive built this very clean mount for our water flow meter. We did not want a ricey and cop attracting pillar pod so Brian fabbed this up out of aluminum and powdercoated it satin gray. This fits the meter into our ash tray area, it's cool because we don't smoke or let anyone smoke in our car. You can even easily put the ash tray back in. The meter should be mandatory for any water injection system because it really aids tuning and is a great safety device. It also has a 0-5 volt output so it can be data logged!
This real time flow rate is handy when tuning and to ensure everything is working properly. The AEM flow gauge has some cool features like a 0-5 volt output for flow rate data logging, a full 320 degree needle sweep for high resolution, an overflow warning light in case of some sort of failure that causes too much flow like a line popping off or springing a leak and seven different display colors to match your interior instrument lights no matter what kind of car you have. The AEM gauge will work on most water injection systems on the market. Having messed around with water injection systems a lot I really appreciate this gauge.

For our initial evaluation, we set up the AEM Water/Methanol injection system on Project EVO IX to inject water only, beginning injection at 10 psi of boost and having the full water volume in by 20 psi. We have our boost mapping set to spike at 24 psi and taper to 21 psi by redline so we would be getting the full volume of water through the rev range. Our EVO is tuned using the stock ECU with ECU Flash and we do our logging via EVO Scan. Our engine has really good oil, coolant and intercooling and we are tuned somewhat conservatively so most of our pulls have no to very little knock count. We sometimes register a knock count of 4 if we do repeated pulls with heat soaking and most tuners agree that the EVO ECU starts to pull timing if the knock count exceeds 3 or so during any single period of wide open throttle operation.

The AEM water/methanol system eliminated all of the knock count that we estimated was caused by rough combustion (the way our EVO is tuned, we never have audible detonation). EVOs sometime develop knock count due to drivetrain lash and other mechanical noise but it is easy to detect spurious knock count by looking at the engine's operation parameters in the logs. Knock count on lift throttle for instance is caused by drivetrain lash.

We also had other positive side effects. We had been tinkering with our boost tables trying to get a very aggressive boost pressure rise. With our highly efficient Full Race exhaust manifold, our turbo can spool so fast we were running into issues with compressor surge, especially when modulating the throttle in higher gears or doing 3-5th gear roll ons. This is pretty harmful to the turbo in long term use. However with the water injection, surge has been eliminated. We theorize that the water absorbs some of the combustion temp and drops the EGT’s enough to where the turbo spools a little slower in the 10-20 psi range and stays out of surge.

We also had a wonky O2 sensor that was contaminated while running race gas during a tuning session. The sensor had a slow response time and sometimes would not go into closed loop tripping a check engine light. A few minutes of operation under water injection operation literally scrubbed the sensor clean and it returned to normal operation which really boosted our fuel economy.

By our own experience, running a turbo car at moderate boost levels on the track with pump gas is always an iffy proposition, especially in Sothern California as most of our tracks are in really hot areas. So when doing track events, we always run 100 octane unleaded or VP 104 even if we are going to be running stock boost as a precaution. Turbo cars also tend to run hot under these conditions. In our experience, water injection really helps hold coolant temperatures down, sometimes even more than a large radiator. It also has a greater detonation suppressing ability than 100 octane fuel. We look forward to our AEM system giving us an extra margin of safety at the track with cheap pump gas without the expense of buying several $80 dollar tankfuls of racing fuel a weekend.


Stay tuned, next we will do a little experimenting with our tuning to see if we can get a significant power boost with the water system.

Magazine, Tech, Engine, Browse by Vehicle, Mitsubishi LANCER, EVO IX, Project EVO IX
G IFT4U
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  #3  
قديم 19-03-2011, 03:36 PM
king2islam king2islam غير متواجد حالياً
 
تاريخ التسجيل: Sep 2010
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king2islam is a jewel in the roughking2islam is a jewel in the roughking2islam is a jewel in the rough
افتراضي رد: Aquamist Water Injection Cooling 2s IT CAN BE FIT WITH ANY CARS!!1

oh is that`s true it amazing
thank you for info
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  #4  
قديم 19-03-2011, 03:38 PM
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افتراضي رد: Aquamist Water Injection Cooling 2s IT CAN BE FIT WITH ANY CARS!!1


المشاركة الأصلية كتبت بواسطة king2islam مشاهدة المشاركة

oh is that`s true it amazing
thank you for info
you very welcome any time man
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  #5  
قديم 11-05-2011, 02:02 AM
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افتراضي رد: Aquamist Water Injection Cooling 2s IT CAN BE FIT WITH ANY CARS!!1

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