حكايتي مع تكيف البرايد

[mohamed ellithy]

عربية اخويا كيا برايد موديل 2000 بدون تكيف وهوا عاوز يركبلها تكيف ممكن ؟

[AbOnOrA]

ممكن يركبلها طبعاً بس ما افضلش يركب لاقل من 1300

المشاركة الأصلية كتبت بواسطة محمد زكي السلام عليكم ورحمة الله اولا عايز اسلم علي كل الناس الي في المنتدي الجميل ده والي اتشرفت اني ابقي عضو فيه . وكمان عايز اعتذر . انا اسف اني طولت عليكو بس يارب اكون قدرت افيدكو باي حاجه زي ما المنتدي ده ديما بيفيد الناس كلها . لو حد محتاج اي حاجه انا تحت امرو .

i had pride sedan since 2001 and it is model 2001 ,it was automatic too the A/C brand
was daweoo from the orginal production line it is sold since 1 year and half ago





in 2007 after 5years i felt the a/c becomes very weak
and need
overall


i was make this fixing operating in sobhy sanad sons beside hamdy Lada
in the same road
for eL sendbad park

about 500 egyptians pounds this work shop
change
A/C compressor kit repair
and of sure recharge
the
freon gas
and the A/C
becomse very strong
even in very hot climate
then this is only part
you need
i am not trust
in all used parts and not all cars parts can replaced by used one!!!





repair kit



or









so please take a good care for the bad scammers into egypt

this all story

read it as well
for exampLe
At the time of removal, the compressor:
-was around 10 years old
-the odometer read over 100k miles
-had spent an unknown number of hours idling without accumulating any miles on the odometer

Note: Most of the images on this page can be enlarged by clicking the left mouse button on the appropriate picture in your web browser. If a red X appears instead of an image, clicking the right mouse button in your web browser will reveal a menu with the option to "show picture" which will attempt to reload the selected picture from this server.

Here's the compressor removed from the car.



These were inserted into the suction and discharge plugs to keep debris from falling into the compressor



With the caps removed



The front clutch pulley bearings are toasted and do not operate properly



This compressor had sat unused for over a year in a humidity and temperature controlled garage. If you look closely, you can see a couple spider webs on it.



There was an oil sludge on the front half of the compressor casing, but this had been present for a long time as evidenced by the lack of corrosion under the coating.




And the front part



Here's the swash plate and the pistons.



And from a different angle



Spin the input shaft and the pistons start to move up/down as the shaft rotates.



When actually installed in a car, the input shaft of the compressor is overdriven and spins faster than the engine crankshaft. Take note of how large the diameter of the engine harmonic balancer is in relation to the a/c compressor clutch pulley in your crownvic.



The green colored liquid is refrigerant oil with the factory installed fluorescent green tracer dye in it.



Another reservoir for oil is inside the a/c accumulator/drier.



And the front half of the compressor with the input shaft removed



This felt washer sits in front of the front shaft seal and acts as an oil wick so that oil doesn't spray onto the clutch surfaces.



Another picture of the front half of the compressor housing



The refrigerant oil had a really high surface tension, and also acts like a magnet at attracting any dirt around it.



Here's the electromagnetic coil which would lock the clutch disc with the pulley when the compressor was commanded to be engaged. This part still smells burnt after sitting unused for over a year.



And the back of the coil. This part was removed using a 1 pound hammer again. This is not the proper service technique, but this compressor will never be reinstalled on an actual vehicle again so this is a moot point.



And the front of the compressor housing with coil removed.



The day was a little windy outside, and a peice of plant matter landed inside the housing. If you're servicing a compressor that will actually go back in a car, you probably will want to work indoors to prevent debris and dirt from getting inside your compressor.



And the rear head. The manifold block would normally bolt here.



The black ring is a flexible o-ring which seals the front half of the compressor housing to the rear of the housing.



And starting here, all of the pictures are of parts that have been cleaned/degreased and then re-coated in wd40 to inhibit further corrosion.



The compressor pistons all had numerical markings on them. This one is H 69



This one H 82



This one H68



Take note of the teflon compressor seal rings





And here you can see the spots in the pistons where the ball shoes would go.



And here's one side of the swash plate. You can see in the

upper left corner, that some of the swashplate coating has worn away.







Here's the cylinder shell with the pistons removed



And the other side of the swash plate



Here is a washer and one of the roller bearings which slip onto the end of the swashplate shaft











And all of the bearings and washers inside the compressor



The front cylinder shell and valving is identical to the back.




Here's all of the parts inside the compressor





And with the valve reed plates removed from the cylinder shell



The valve reed plates are constructed of spring steel, and bend back & forth when the compressor is actually installed in a car and compressing refrigerant.



That black plate has some sort of polymer coating on it that melted a little bit and left a black outline on the silver plate in front of it.





Here's the swash plate with the bearing and thrust washers installed on it.



And the swash plate inside the cylinder shell.



Here's the parts in the above picture seperated apart.



And from a different angle



And a closeup of the bearings again



The input shaft is a little discolored on the front near the clutch. Wonder what hardness it would now rank at after recieving a heat treatment from the failed compressor clutch.











Here's two pistons. One with the ballshoe installed, one without.





And the front/rear of the ball shoes.



And a piston with both ball shoes installed and a swash plate inserted too. Note how the ballshoes allow the swash plate to change angles.







When assembled, there will be only 5 pistons inside the compressor. But each piston is double-acting and has two sides to it. So this is considered a 10 cylinder compressor.





The pistons had some scratches on the tops. Likely from the read valves hitting them.



There must be some sort of secret trick to getting the pistons with all 10 ball shoes on them installed into the cylinder shell. But for ease of assembly, the ball shoes were left out for these pictures.
















This swashplate FS10 r134a compressor will also retrofit into 1992-1993 crown victorias with the factory installed FX15 r12 compressor. But do note that most 1992 ford crown victorias will require a 7 groove pulley rather than the 6 groove pulley that you'll find in later crown vics.

Note that many of the ford trucks will have an 8 groove clutch pulley rather than the 6-groove clutch pulley that's typically found on passenger cars. And on some applications, the a/c clutch coil might need to be rotated some to change the connector clocking.

And if the rear head were to be changed from a top port manifold connection unit, to a rear port manifold connection unit you could also use this compressor in many more ford cars like the taurus, v6 mustang, etc...

Some people have talked about using an a/c compressor as a source of shop air to run pneumatic air tools from their motor vehicle while they're on the road. This compressor might work if you figured out a way to keep it oiled. But a better choice would probably be a compressor from the 1960's or 1970's car with an internal oil reservoir.

[احمد على 1999]

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