�� 104 �� 75 ��

�� · #1 24-04-2011, 12:47 PM

�� 104 �� 75 ��

#2 29-04-2011, 05:16 AM

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�� 104 �� 75 ��

caLL this number for used spare parts for PEGOUET
0106183903
mostafa eLaskry

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1984
�� 104
ZS
1400 c.c
or
1124
c.c

some good ideas
for your engine
!!!!!!

This is not the 1440cc but I thought this was a nice picture to start with this part of this story...

In 2003 I got an Email from Andrew (England) that he knew a guy that sold PTS parts for the Samba. That person almost lived next door of me! Thank G. there is Internet! It was a huge amount of PTS parts and a restored Peugeot 104 included. I thought about buying it for almost a year. He didn't want to lower his price, and I wanted the parts so eventually I bought them. The Peugeot 104 I sold to a friend ( a very beautiful car but I don't like "beautiful" cars!!!).
The PTS parts I kept:
- PTS exhaust ( 3 complete ones)
- Flowed cylinder head done by LAD-England, 1285 camshaft and double valve springs
- Adjustable Camshaft sprocket
- PTS clutch plate
- Samba Rally engine complete ( 1219 90hp)
- PTS lockeed front brakes, plus discs and GTI rear brakes ( discs)
- Parts of PTS suspension
- New Renault 16 cylinders and liners ( to make a 1440 cc engine)
- PTS rear anti roll bar
- New set of gaskets and bearings
So with this idea I wanted to complete the 1440 cc engine, but I still had to do a lot of work.

Up to august 2005:
First I noticed that the liners didn't match the cylinder block of the 1219cc engine. They are longer so I had to use a cylinder block of a 1360cc engine.
I had one in stock so I took that one. Next problem was that the 77mm liners didn't fit in it.
The cylinder block had to be machined, OK no problem, so I did.

Next the thing to do was the machining of the connection rods, the piston pin of the Renault pistons are 1mm larger in diameter. Also no problem, but I forgot to ask the pay attention to the weight of the pistons and the connection rods. You should ask for it!!!

As I thought that the compression ratio of the tuned cylinder head would be to high I measured the volume of the camber at TDC (top dead centre) and the volume at BDC (bottom dead centre) and the value was 9.3-9.6 depending on what cylinder head gasket you would use ( the 1.45mm or the 1.65mm). Well with both of them no problem.
I assembled all the parts together and I used a standard camshaft sprocket, because I didn't know how to fit the adjustable sprocket. The french manual was not clear to me at that moment.
I turned the engine around and I felt a heavy point on turning, not good I thought. I disassembled the cylinder head to see, and I noticed a mark from the inlet valve on the piston, shit another setback. To be sure how bad it really was I had to find out how to fit the adjustable camshaft sprocket.
For two weeks I studied on the French text using "Babel Fish Internet Translator", a dictionary and my knowledge about 104 engines.
Back from a week holidays in Turkey I started with new hope but another problem came up. In finding the TDC and measuring the height of the liners were above the cylinder block I found values out of specifications. One liner was below the rest more then the specs alowed. The other three were more than 0.18mm above the cylinder block ( 0.22mm). Inspection learned me that the cylinder block is not straight. Shit where does it end??? Well I should have inspected that before!!!
Its not easy to built up an engine from scratch for the first time. Until now I disassembled most of the engines, I have dis- and assembled gearboxes, clutches and so on but not the engine itself. Not to think of a modified (1440cc) group B engine. Look at it as a learning project.....
13-08-05
I disassembled another 1360cc cylinder block to see if that one was better, but it was the same. So I thought that it could not be a very big problem. I started to measure the unstraightness and actually it was not so bad. It was less then 0.05mm. I took an aluminium block covered it with waterproof sandpaper 400 and started to flatten it. That was not so difficult and now its straight again.
Still the liners are too high, why??? I measured the height and they were not machined properly. One liner was 90,03. the others were 90,10. They should be 90,00, so there the problem is coming from.
14-08-05
I tried to shorten the liners with sandpaper 150 on a flat table and its possible to shorten it with 0,03- 0.05 mm with limited effort. So all the liners are within the limits, Oh I am happy.
15-08-05
I decided to weight the cylinders and driveshafts, and you know what... the difference is more than 5 grams. I think this is to much. Now I am trying to find out how I can make this difference smaller. Where can I take some material away?

01-09-05
I finally figured out how to adjust the camshaft sprocket to get the camshaft into the right position. To make the long story short: first you find the accurate TDC (top dead center). The space in the cranshaft is also possible ( beware its for the second cylinder). After that I started to measure the tops of the cams with the camshaft chain in the normal position so at position "0" and the marks of the chain as stated in the normal "Haines Manual". First you measure the top of the inlet and then the top of the outlet valve. If you are more than 20� off than you can shift one tooth of the chain. If its less (less then say 6 degrees then you can alter the position of the sprocket, to A, B, C, D, E or if more degrees off you can turn the sprocket to adjust to U, V, W, X, Y, Z. With these options it must be possible to get the cam right. I warn you its not so simple as I write it down. If you want to know more, please let me know.
After I did this I was able to check how much space is between the valve and the piston. Well it touched the postion so it was negative. It took me 1.5 mm loosening of the valve before it runnes free. A friend told me that I needed at least 2 mm as margin for floating valves at high RPM. So I am forced to machine the pistons before I will be able to let it run freely

In 2006:
A friend from work helped my to machine the pistons to give room for the high valve lift of 11.3mm. In the TDC ( TopDeadCenter) I needed more space. Unfortunately I made an error in the place of the valve so we had to remachine it a little bit. Also the Exhaust valves are smaller so the shapes to machine off at the place of the exhaust valves could be smaller. A small loss of compression is a waste of power. As the result of that error I decided to make an change of height of the lower part of the engine:

I shortened the underblock by 0.75mm to increase the compression ration from 9.3 to 10.8 the meet the original Visa 2 Chrono Group B engine getting the wanted 143 hp. Still I have to shorten the cylinders by the same amount.
Also I ordered a special clutch to handle al the amount of power, after that I want to balance the crankshaft, flywheel, clutch an pistons. I forgot to tell the tuning company to weigh the pistons and now there is more than 5 grams difference in wheight of the pistons and connecting rods. So balancing is obligatory otherwise at high RPM the engine will vibrate the HELL!
I bought the 45 mm Weber Carburettors, the original 45mm inlet manifold so its almost ready for assembling!

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�� 104
!!!!!!!!!!

Changes made in the gearbox
Racing with the Samba Rally in its normal configuration will give problems with the dramatically drop of oilpressure. Most of the time this will be the end of your beautifull engine. In long curves aspacially to the left the oil will be swept to one side of the engine and can't go down fast enough. The cylinder head will flood and the oil forced out through the carter ventillation hose into the carburettor. Sometime people will put a bottle on the end of the hose to prevent the oil coming into the carbs. After a couple of rounds this bottle will be full and the engine will lack of enough oil rusulting an problems anyway.
The solution is to get back the oil to the oilpump fast enough. In the PTS document (look for Notice PTS.ZIP) 4 solutions
1) A hose from the carter ventillation back to the side of the gearbox
2) A hose from the cylinder head to the upper part of the gearbox

On the side of the gearbox the hose will come out here and the hose will come into the upperside of the gearbox!

On my engine its done in another way, not so effective:

The diameter of the hose is rather small, but on the race track I don't have any problems with the oilpressure.
Its a 1360cc engine with 40mm Webers ( choke 33mm) and low compression ratio of about 9.3. So the engine is not so strongly tuned.

3) Make some changes in the gearbox itself to facilitate the oil more easily to the oilpump suctionpoint at the bottom of the gearbox

After fabrication most of the time sharp edges remain behind decreasing the opening, removing makes flowing of oil more easy.

On the left the arrows indicate the place to make extra holes, on the right the opening on thel left ( small long one) is very small and has to be made much bigger as on the picture)

To make it easyier to let the oil flow towards the suctionpoint of the oilpump you have to take some material away. If you use the extra carter ring I think this is not necessary because you lower the suction point of the oilpump anyway.

4) Increase the oil content of the engine by mounting a carterring (with me 30 mm but this can be less)

The ring I made myself, its little more than 30mm. You need to get longer bolts for the fixation of the ring and don't forget to lower the suctionpoint by the same distance ( they didn't do it on my 1360cc, but I still have to do it anyway).
I also added an oilcooler, I noticed on the circuit that after 20 minutes the drop in oilpressure began ( at high oiltemperaturs of over 120 degrees.
The engine is not ready so I don't have pictures as it is assembled, but as soon as I do you will get them!

1360cc type XY6 de 104 ZS