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almansour · #1 26-03-2009, 01:44 AM

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MazdaProtege.net :: How-to :: Change Right Axle

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</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table width="740" border="0"> <tbody><tr> <td> <table width="400" align="left" bgcolor="#000000" border="3" bordercolor="#000000"> <tbody><tr> <td bordercolor="#000000" colspan="2" bgcolor="#333333"> Changing Passenger-side CV Joint (axle)

</td> </tr> <tr> <td bordercolor="#000000" rowspan="2" width="193" bgcolor="#333333">Model Years:
1990-1998 w/DOHC 1.8L Engine
DX models similar</td> <td bordercolor="#000000" width="187" bgcolor="#333333">Estimated Time: 1:30-3:00</td> </tr> <tr> <td bordercolor="#000000" width="187" bgcolor="#333333"> Cost of Parts Needed: $70-80 after core charge (remanu'd)
</td> </tr> <tr> <td bordercolor="#000000" colspan="2" bgcolor="#333333">Symptom s of a bad axle:

Clicking noise when you turn the wheel to the left
Clicking noise when you drive slowly
Torn Boot leaking grease
Car shakes under acceleration or braking but not when your cruising.
Severe loss of power and massive torque steer (this would basically indicate your axle broke ).

Remedy to bad axle:

Change the boot that is torn, and repack with grease
Replace axle with a new or remanufactured unit

Either one of the remedies will require you to remove it, which is what is covered in this how-to. Just follow the steps and save the $150-250 of labor you'll pay at your mechanic
[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/tornboot.jpg[/IMG]
Reason I replace this axle, small tear in the boot was leaking grease and making a slight clicking noise when I drive slowly or turn hard.
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Tools you will need:
[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/toolsyouneed.jpg[/IMG]
Click the picture to see a spelled out version

Impact wrench
32mm Impact socket
21mm socket
Decent quality Breaker Bar
Floor jack and Jack-stands
4' cheater pipe (optional)
Metal punch tool
Hammer
Sledge Hammer
17mm Socket
17mm Wrench
14mm Socket
14mm Wrench
12mm Deep Socket
12mm Wrench
10mm socket and ratchet
1/2" Drive ratchet
Molybdenum based grease
Can of Anti-seize
Drain Pan
Wooden stick
Stake tool
1/2" drive 2" Extension
Flat-head screwdriver
Prybar

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<table width="740" bgcolor="#333333" border="1" bordercolor="#333333"> <tbody><tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td colspan="2">Installation Instructions:</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">1: Loosen Lugnuts with 21mm socket and breaker bar</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642"> 2: Jack up vehicle with floorjack and properly lower onto jackstands
</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">3: Remove lugnuts and remove wheel</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/unstakenut.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642"> 4A: Using the hammer and the metal punch, unstake the driveaxle hub locknut so you can loosen it.
</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/splashshield.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">4B: Remove the splash sheild. There are 6-7 10mm bolts that easily come off. This will allow you to take the entire axle out without damaging the splash shield</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/takenutoff.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642"> 5: Use the wooden stick you have (i used a broken broomstick) to keep the wheel from turning while you hammer the axle nut off with the impact wrench. The reason to use wood is so you don't damage the lugnut studs. I found this out the hard way, using the breaker bar instead...i damaged the threads so now the lugnut is difficult to turn about half way down the stud.
NOTE: It took me about 4 straight minutes of hammering the nut for it to come off. If you've never changed your axle before, over time the rust could have fused the nut to the threads of the axle. If you have a hard time getting it off, you could always use a jackhammer and split the nut off of the axle.
Another way you could get the nut off would be to a quality breaker bar (such as craftsman with their lifetime warranty against breakage) and a 4' cheater pipe. Have an assistant hold down the brakes with the engine running (so you get power assist) and try to undo the bolt. The OEM specs for the torque of the nut are between 175 and 235 ft/lbs. of torque, which is why its such a pain in the ass to get off.
</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/hubnutoff.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642"> Driveaxle hub nut removed
</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642"> Now you need to be able to swing the hub away from the axle so you can remove the outer end of the axle. There are a couple approaches to this. Please follow steps 6- using the corresponding routes as describe below:
Route A: I chose the easier route which required me to remove both 17mm strut bolts and nuts and the 12mm swaybar bushings. If you do this, you can pivot the entire hub on the balljoint. If your balljoint is worn like mine was, you risk tearing it like I did.
Route B: The better route would be to remove the bottom 17mm strut bolt and loosen the upper one, undo the balljoint and perhaps even undo the Tie-rod end. This way you could pivot the hub on the top 17mm strut bolt and swing it away that way without risking damage to your tie rod end or ball joint.
</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/swaybardisconnected.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">6A: Using the 12mm deep socket on the bottom and 12mm wrench on the top, unscrew the swaybar bushing bolt and remove the 4 bushings and bolt. This will allow the controlling arm to fall farther downward so you will have enough clearance to remove the axle from the hub.</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/brakelineclip.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">7A: Take the screwdriver and the hammer and gently tap the clip holding the brakeline to the strut out. It might be stubborn , and prying might also work, but be careful not to damage or bend the brake line too much</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/undostrutbolt.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">8A: Now with the 17mm socket and breaker bar on the right and 17mm wrench holding the other side, undo both bolts holding the strut to the hub assembly. You will probably have to hammer the bolts out. Be careful, the entire hub will come down and outward, and it will rest on the balljoint.</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">9A: Using the hammer, tap the axle so the splines pops out of the hub. You will need to bend the outer cv joint a practical 90 degrees to get it to come out of the hub. After you get it out, quickly prop the hub on something to keep it from tearing the balljoint cover (if it hasn't already)</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/balljointbolt.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">6B: Using the 14mm wrench and 14mm socket, undo the bolt pinching the balljoint to the hub assembly. After you get the bolt out, you will have to pry the balljoint apart from the assembly. (There is a special pry rod you can rent from various auto stores that will do this without damage) You could also try to hammer out the balljoint from above if you can get a good angle.</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/brakelineclip.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">7B1: Take the screwdriver and the hammer and gently tap the clip holding the brakeline to the strut out. It might be stubborn , and prying might also work, but be careful not to damage or bend the brake line too much</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/undostrutbolt.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">7B2: With the 17mm socket and breaker bar on the right and 17mm wrench holding the other end, remove the bottom strut bolt, and loosen the top strut bolt so the hub can pivot on it.</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">8B: If the Tie-rod wont' allow you to get enough clearance to take the axle out of the hub assembly, you can disconnect that as well. Using the hammer, take out the cotter pin holding the nut in place and loosen (do not remove) the 14mm nut on the bottom. After that, loosen the jam nut on the tie rod itself, and be sure to mark where it was. Using a prybar, pry the tie-rod end from the hub assembly. You might need a special tie-rod seperator tool. You can rent these from most auto parts stores </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">9B: Using the hammer, tap the axle so the splines pop out of the hub. You should be able to remove the rest of the outer end of the axle without a problem.</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/swingawayhub.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642"> Now that you have the outer end out of the hub assembly, it is time to remove the axle from the joint shaft. The DX models do no have the joint shaft, they just have one long axle that goes straight into the transmission, but to reduce torque steer on the 1.8liter DOHC models, mazda uses a intermediate shaft or "joint shaft" to acheive this. The joint shaft goes into the transmission and is held up by a bracket. The axle then goes into the end where the bracket is.
NOTE: You can NOT pull the axle shaft and expect it to seperate from the joint shaft. It is really in there and you will most likely need to remove the joint shaft and axle as one peice.
</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">10: OPTIONAL STEP: Get under the car and locate the bracket and end of the axle. Using a hammer, try to beat the axle out of the joint shaft. If you are super lucky it will come out and you won't have to worry about any transmission fluid coming out, etc.</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642"> If you find that you don't have enough clearance to be able to strike the axle hard enough, you will have to undo the bracket and pull the jointshaft with axle attached out of the transmission. </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/jointshaftbracket.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642"> 11: Get under the car and locate the joint shaft bracket. You will need a 2" extension, 14mm socket and a short enough ratchet to get in there. The bolts are on there about 30-40 ft/lbs. so make sure you get a ratchet that is long enough, but not so long it won't let you ove it around (the ratchet i used was a standard 1/2" drive size.....it worked perfect).
NOTE: This picture illustrates the approximate locations of the 3 14mm bolts
</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td rowspan="2">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/popjointshaftout.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642" height="112">12: After you remove the nuts, try to see if you can just pull the axle out of the transmission (have the drain pan in place, or you will make a mess). </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="642">13: The shaft will most likely not come completely out without a fight, so when you have it about this far out (see the picture), pry it with the pry bar against that outer ring. It should come out without much force. </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/transmissiondraining.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642"> 14: Making sure the joint shaft bracket doesn't get caught up in anything....gently pull the jointshaft w/axle attached away from the transmission and out from the car. You don't want to screw up the joint shaft

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Pictured: transmission fluid draining from transaxle
</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/axleseperated.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">15: Now using the sledge hammer, and holding the axle's shaft with your legs, whack the axle towards you. It took me 3 good hard whacks to get it to seperate from the joint-shaft.</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/axlesepangle2.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">Close-up of the joint shaft and axle end</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/newaxleconnected.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">16: Grease up the inner axle end with some molybdenum based grease and insert it into the joint shaft. If you want to do it correctly, remove the old metal ring on the joint shaft splines and put on a new one (mine seemd fine, so i left it). Insert the joint shaft splines into the axle, it will likely not want to go in. If this is the case, prop up the joint shaft and axle vertically and, with the joint shaft at the bottom, strike the top of the axle with the hammer until it slides into the joint shaft all the way. Be careful to not screw up either splined end of the jointshaft / axle.</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/bracketdisconnected.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">17: Gently push the new axle and joint shaft back towards the transmission, be sure that the bracket is facing upwards so you can mount it back. </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">18: Insert the joint shaft into the transmission. It should just pop in if you move it up and down enough. If it is stubborn to go in, try gently tapping the bracket or axle end until it pops in (don't whack it hard or you could damage the transmission).</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/jointshaftbracket.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">19: Secure the joint-shaft bracket to the engine block with the 3 14mm bolts, and tighten them.</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/readytopopin.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">20: Get out from under the car. Grease up the other end of the axle with molybdenum based grease and insert it back into the hub assembly. </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">21A: Swing the hub assembly back into the strut and secure it with the 17mm bolts. Tighten them with the breaker bar and 17mm wrench</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">22A: Place the brakeline back into the strut and use the hammer to whack the clip back into place</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/swaybarbushings.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">23A: Place the swaybar bushings back onto the bolt correctly and put it through the swaybar. Secure it with the 12mm bolt using the 12mm deep socket and wrench. Don't overtighten or you could crack the bushings if they are old.</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">21B: Push the Balljoint back into the bottom of the hub assembly. You might have to strike it with the hammer to get it in all the way. Place the 14mm pinch bolt back into place to secure it.</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">22B: Hammer the tie rod end back into the hub assembly bracket and thread the 14mm nut back into place. Hammer the cotter pin back through it (you are supposed to replace it, but I didn't have any cotter pins handy) </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">23B: Put the lower 17mm bolt back through the strut and hub assembly and tighten both 17mm nuts with the socket, breaker bar and wrench. </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/popinside.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">24: Make sure the axle is pushed all the way through the hub, enough so the threads from the axle are exposed. Coat the threads with anti-seize and screw on the new driveaxle hub nut with your fingers</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">25: Using the impact wrench and 32mm socket, tighten the hub nut to 175-235 ft/lbs. of torque. </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/stakehubnut.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">26: Using a staking tool and hammer, stake the hub nut into the axle so it won't have a chance of moving</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/nutstaked.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">How it should look after you stake the hub nut</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82"> </td> <td width="642">27: Refill transmission with fluid in draining pan, or with new fluid to the specified level on the speedometer gear.</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/axleinstalled.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642">Your done!! Here is a couple angles of the axle installed!!</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#000000"> <td width="82">[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Setting s/XPPRESP3.USER/Desktop/everythingback.jpg[/IMG]</td> <td width="642"> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> Copyright � 2003 ProjectMazda.com. All rights reserved.