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مرتين وحياتك ![]() واول مرة اتصلت عليك ونتا مرديتش فانكسفت الصراحة اكلمك تانى غير لما اكون على طريق الصحراوى تعرف مزرعة الكرام اللى قصاد البنزينة بتاعت التعاون الزرقا المزرعه فى طريق بعيد عن الطريق الصحراوى ب 20 كيلو جوا تقريبا على مدخل مدينة بدر مزرعة الكرام ومرضيتش اكلمك علشان ما أتعبكش يوم الخميس بالليل اوى كنت هناك حضرت الدرس وقعدت لبلليل وبعدين مشيت الجمعه الساعة 11 |
#552
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[QUOTE=aimooo;702864]عاوزين يا جماعه نسأل CARS ADMIRE ايه معلوماته عن الوحش 132
اكيد عنده حاجات يعرفهالنا من مواضيعه التحفه وايه رأيه في العربيه دي وايه الخبايا اللي عنده عنها انا متأكد انه عندو موسوعة معلومات عنها ![]() 2500 سى سى ديزل ![]() ![]() الاسبراتير فين ؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟!! Notice fuel system for N2O kit installed in foreground. Holly electric fuel pump with separate regulator provides fuel at around 8 lb/in^2 to the fuel solenoid. ![]() ![]() Nitrous bottle in place, but not used in the last three years. Waiting to sort out some fueling issues before this is used again. The bottle used to be inside the car behind the passenger seat. New laws meant it had to be moved to the boot. This makes turning the nitrous on and off tricky. NOS have a remote bottle solenoid, but this is another NZ$500. working on building a programmable ignition system for the car. This will let me vary the advance as I'm driving and should prove a useful tuning tool. The kit also has an input that can be used to retard the timing when the nitrous system is activated. An engine running on nitrous requires less advance than a normally aspirated engine. Fiat 132GL ![]() 10 Feb 2002: Here are some photos of the kit that I have just completed. This kitset is produced by Jaycar, part number KC5202. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 8 Jul 2002: Took my N2O cylinder to BOC gasses today to have it re-certified. They are sending it off to Auckland. In order to re-certify it they need to test such things as the safety valve. If it doesn't pass, they can repair/replace the valve etc. The legislation has recently changed and before it can be re-certified however they must first assign it a LAB number. The thing is, they also test it before assigning a LAB number, and if it fails that test they cannot give it a LAB number. Well I just hope it doesn't get stuck in an infinite loop of not being able to be fixed because it's not certified, etc. etc! 12 Jul 2002: I picked up my custom built vacuum actuated switch today. This will connect to the ignition system and provide further advance when the engine is operating under light load. The unit was built by Barry Emms of Quality Rebuilds. Barry engineered the unit to make it possible to adjust the activation point by simply rotating a nylon knob. ![]() 25 Jul 2002: I just heard back from BOC gasses regarding my nitrous oxide cylinder. It turns out they no longer re-certify the automotive variety. They tried to locate companies that do, but couldn't find anyone! Help! Does anyone know of a place that re-certifies automotive nitrous oxide cylinders in New Zealand? Stay tuned for the latest news on the Fiat from hell. Fiat 132GL ![]() 12 Jul 2002: This is a kitset that I have built to install in the Fiat. The Jaycar catalogue number is KC5300. The kit allows you to measure the air:fuel ratio of your engine. I'm going to use it to track down the flat spot in the throttle response when cruising. I think the car might be running slightly lean. As standard the kitset comes calibrated for a Bosch sensor. After completing the kit I went to buy the sensor. Well it turns out there is more to a sensor than one might first imagine. There are standard (EGO) sensors that are good for measuring around the 14.7:1 ratio. These do not work well with particularly rich or lean mixtures. For such mixtures it is better to use what is known as a wide-band (UEGO) sensor. They exhibit a transfer curve that produces a more accurate result when measuing particularly rich or lean mixtures. The particular sensor this kit is calibrated for is a wide-band sensor. Now the scarey part. The Bosh sensor retails for around NZ$730 (~US$350). This is around ten times the price of the kitset itself. With this in mind I put off buying a sensor at all. I hooked up a variable voltage display to the input of the kit and took some photos (below). This lets you see the typical values you might see on a working unit. Everything from rich (R) through to Lean (L). ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() OK, I've decided to go with a typical garden variety EGO sensor and to see how it goes. I saw that people on the Net were paying around US$30 for them, so I decided to go to the local parts shop and just buy a new unit. OK, NZ$142 (US$70) later I have a brand new generic single wire EGO sensor. So much for obtaining a cheap sensor. Still it's better than $700+. I decided to take a photo of this wonderful piece of equipment (below). ![]() Fiat 132GL ![]() The year is 2005. Funny, car technology really hasn't advanced much in the last few years. The Fiat has been running pretty well, but the distributor has been giving some problems. The hack to attach the distributor to the end of one of the cams has resulted in a bit of play. With the amount of play in the system this has lead to quite a bit of wear. In fact when I disassembled it, there was a nice slot carved out by the metal pins on the distributor shaft. I had been thinking about distributor-less ignition for a while as I had never really liked this distributor much. It came off a Japanese car and the module in it also let me down once (stranded on side of road...). I decided to design and build a distributor-less system; a so-called wasted spark design. This works with two coils, each coil providing two outputs, to two spark plugs. When one coil fires, two cylinders 'fire', but the timing is such that one of those cylinders will be on the exhaust stroke and hence will have no effect (the spark is effectively wasted). I figured I would be able to build this into the Jaycar programmable system so that I would be able to still use that to perform the timing, and my bit of kit would select which coil to charge and fire. التعديل الأخير تم بواسطة cars admire ; 26-06-2012 الساعة 01:49 PM |
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Here is version 1 of the system.
![]() ![]() Being stubborn I didn't give up and buy a Toyota. Instead I built version two. Distributorless ignition, version 2 After some serious thought I decided it would not be reasonable to use discrete ICs to design the ignition. There were just too many things I was not sure about with regard to the Jaycar ignition. What signals were produced, when, level-triggered vs. edge triggered, it was all a bit foggy. So I decided to use a microcontroller. This would let me fiddle with somftware and not have to design new boards each time. It's based on an Atmel chip which I had to order from Digikey in the US - they don't seem to sell them in this unfashionable end of the world. ![]() In order to decide which bank of cylinders should fire I use a cam sensor. This was mounted in front of one of the cam wheels. Tim at Fixations helped with the mounting of the sensor as well as fitting 'timing marks' onto the cam wheel itself. The timing for these does not have to be exact as I only need to know what 'quadrant' I need to be in. The sensor is just visible in the photo below (right hand cam wheel). ![]() ![]() It ran pretty well for the next few months. A nice professional PCB is in the works to replace the hand-made in the garage at home one I have been using. Then bad things happened ![]() ![]() Where is all the water going? ![]() After changing to the distributor-less system the car was pretty reliable. The only thing I noticed in the following months was that it would consume spark plugs a little more regularly than it used to. Number four always appeared a little discoloured. See the photos below; left is a plug from number one. Right is a plug from number four. ![]() ![]() For what it's worth, many people with older cars have problems with the current fuel in New Zealand. It causes fouling quite badly so it is quite common to run slightly hotter plugs than in a country where decent fuel is available. After some time without any body repairs that dreaded rust started to appear. So I took the car in for work. I'm amazed how a new car gets repaired in a day or two, but as soon as the car is old, the panel-beater gives it lower priority. Anyway, after being passed over for a few weeks, the car is finally ready. So I'm driving home and the temperature rises above where it usually sits. I stop and check the water level in the radiator. Oh no, there is no water... This reminds me of another story (there are so many) about a colleague of mine who had his car worked on. When he picked up the car he noticed that the temperature went up higher than normal. He stopped to have a look under the hood and noticed the radiator was missing. Yes, the garage had removed it and not replaced it. Good 'ol NZ eh. My car still had its radiator, just no water. So had the water been drained or had it disappeared by another means? Well, in the days that followed I kept a close eye on the water level. It appeared to be disappearing. Oh no, head gasket? The oil looked fine though. Of course this happens when your mechanic takes a three month leave to go to Europe. So it's off to another mechanic, in fact the guys who service my 911. As it turns out they pressurise the system and water blasts out number four spark plug hole. Oh dear. They remove the head and find a leak between the water jacket and the inlet of number four. Number four. That explains it. Looking at the rather clean valve on number four it's possible to see I've been running with water injection (unintended in this case). ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I took some photos of the car without its head. It really does look poorly. ![]() Here is a photo of the carbs as they lie on the bench at Autothority. ![]() هدية لمسترهشام الجزار علشان ينفز ويطبق!!! وعلشان استاز ايمن واستاز محمد صلاح القاضى !! ![]() رابط مهم جدا http://www.google.com.eg/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=131%20ab arth%20volumetrico&source =video&cd=7&ved=0CEoQtwIw Bg&url=http%3A%2F%2Fplay. kendincos.com%2F174578%2F Wpttxdhrvnrjntxjn-motor-131-abarth-16v-gr4.html&ei=HI7pT-XwNIHWsgbd4p3GDg&usg=AFQj CNGVfI2-l05x4bEnLOP2gKkb029Bjg موتور مين ده ؟؟؟؟؟؟!! |
#554
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![]() استفسر عن دهان سيارتك !!! اللهم لك الحمد كما ينبغي لجلال وجهك وعظيم سلطانك ورشة إيه آي أوتو بينت لسمكرة ودهان السيارات
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#555
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الكلمات الدليلية |
132, fiat |
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